Tales of an Irish Rover
by Joe "McFarland
2009 Great Lakes Cruise
July 26 – August 1, 2009

Cruise Photos

Irish Rover trip report – 7/26/09 to 8/1/09

Once at the boat ramp and after brief introductions to those coming and going as boats were rigged and launched, we met up in the marina park pavilion for the BBQ cookout and Christmas in July gift exchange. Like always and without saying, boaters in general are super friendly and always enjoyable to be around. I am glad to announce this group took no exceptions to the norm; if anything exceeding these stereotypes.

With everything secured and set for Monday’s events, Sunday night was relaxing and sleeping in the cool air was comfortable.

7/27 Monday

Skippers meeting 0900: I survived what would be the most difficult challenge of the day - my instant coffee is in the cup but my creamer is missing (forgot to pack it). Choking down my coffee, the group discussed and agreed to the days float plan. Great meeting and well organized, I left with no questions of what, where, and when things would happen.

We set sail for a trip around Basswood Island. Winds were from the SW making the first leg a down wind sail. Some skippers sailing wing on wing others flying spinnakers, I chose the spinnaker. Reaching the north end of the island with some time to spare, I cautiously sailed my boat onto the shallow rocky beach. Once my swing keel hit bottom, I dropped all sail, retrieved my swim ladder from below and went in for a quick dip. Yes, the water was in fact cold! However, very refreshing.

Once most of the group had caught up, I hoisted my sails, cranked up the keel, and headed back out to join them.

Wind was all but absent during the leg around the north tip. Some motored (myself included) where some were far enough out to maintain some forward momentum. Once rounding the island, winds picked back up and sailing under jib and main was back in full force.

Somewhat beating our way back, we all made port and no problems were encountered that day. Later we met back at the pavilion for drinks and tales of the day’s adventure.

Total Sail Time: 7 hrs
Total Nautical Miles: 18 nm

7/28 Tuesday

Skippers meeting 0900: Having planned my own agenda, I attended the skippers meeting to see what the group had in store for the day. With high winds out of the SW the group chose to stay close to the mainland. At the end of the meeting, I interjected with my estimated float plan that would span over the next 4 days.

Being a boater for over 20 years, and living aboard a 30 foot C&C on Lake Erie for the past 7 years, my goal at the Apostle Islands was to visit as many islands and take in as much of the natural surroundings as possible during my time spent there. I had left Cleveland, OH with the Rover provisioned for a long distance sail to do just that.

My estimated float plan was to spend Tuesday night on the SE bay of Stockton Island, Wednesday sail to and spend the night somewhere near South Twin Island, Thursday sail to and spend the night somewhere near Sand Island, retuning Friday afternoon for the fish boil dinner with the group. The following report describes my journeys hereafter.

1000 left port fully provisioned (including creamer this time) with my 8’ zodiac in tow. Having an inflatable boat/motor in any body of water anywhere in the world serves several purposes: Backup boat, backup outboard motor, safety tow line (bitter end should you fall overboard while underway), tow boat, water taxi, provisioning, entertainment / exploring, and most of all peace at mind should tragedy strike and you find yourself taking a cram course called “Swimming 101” (especially in the frigid waters of Lake Superior).

Again on a run (downwind sail) this time with only my 150% Genoa, sailing was exhilarating at least. Cruising along at a minimum 6 knot boat speed and seeing the occasional 8.5 knots on the GPS made the venture that much more exiting.

Kayakers also took advantage of the high winds as depicted in this photo:

Reaching Quarry Bay on Stockton Island in what seemed to be no time at all, I made anchor in the shallows on the sandy beach to prepare lunch. Having a 12 VDC refrigerated cooler onboard makes for great provisioning of small items like meat, cheese, vegetables, and condiments. However, drawbacks include needing a primo battery (I have a Trojan group 24 AGM 80 amp hours), a volt meter for monitoring voltage levels, and in my case two solar panels. This worked well having left the marina with 13.5 volts and returning after 4 days with 12.2 volts.

 

After my cold cut lunch sandwiches, I went ashore in the zodiac. Wind was favorable so I just tethered the zodiac to the Rover with a long line and drifted ashore. Exploring, the landscape I now know what a “bear proof locker” is. At first I thought a person was to climb inside in case of bear attacks but didn’t understand the door lock mechanism. After reading the instructions, it was clear the purpose was for food stowage when camping. I think I’d still rather be inside the thing, just in case.

After lunch, I pulled myself back to Rover and headed for Julian Bay on Stockton Island. Again, in no time at all I was making anchor in what I thought was a great sandy beach. This is where my day started getting really exciting.

I dropped the head sail and fired up the “iron genny” making my way past two anchored sail boats to the shallow beach area about 50 yards from shore and in about 3 feet of water. The water is so clear on Lake Superior that you can see 15+ feet to the bottom of most areas, so dropping an anchor in 3 feet of water onto a sandy bottom seems mindless. Never underestimate anchoring conditions; they can be very deceiving as I learned the hard way.

Having made my way to shore via Zodiac, I went exploring along the beaches, on through the rocky shores, and into the islands trails. About 2 hours (1 ½ miles) later in Presque Isle Bay, I was approached by a young military looking park ranger. He was looking for a boater that owned a “22 foot sailboat with blue sail covers”. The description matched my boat and when I left my boat, it was the only 22 foot boat in the bay, so I asked him why. He explained that a passing vessel reported to the Coast Guard there’s a “22 foot boat with its motor up, sails down, and no one on board adrift of the coast of Stockton Island”. Unbelieving it was my boat after having many years of anchoring with zero issues. But in the back of my mind, I was worried because there was no other 22’s in the bay - so whose boat was this???

The 6’ 2” ranger started running through the woods on his way to Julian Bay; I gave up running after about 1/4 mile when my 1 year old boat shoes filled with rocks, sand, and twigs. When I did get to the bay, he was standing on the rocky shore with binoculars looking for my boat. I already knew it was my boat for when I reached the shore, the Rover had her own plans and left without me.

The ranger was on the radio with the Coast Guard who were preparing to launch a retrieval vessel. Knowing that my Zodiac would not be favorable for a boat rescue, I asked them to hold off until I made an attempt to shanghai a dinghy and captain from the beach. I ran down the beach and shouted “who has a fast dinghy and wants to make a hundred bucks???” Of the two persons on the beach with inflatables, an experienced captain (Captain Wayne) raised his hand. Quickly, I grabbed my PFD from my Zodiac and we made way. After a speedy ~1.5 mile ride out into the lake, I was able climb aboard Rover (in great relief) and get the motor started for the trip back to the beach.

Upon my return to the beach (again in 3’ of water), I put $100 in my pocket and jumped over the side of my boat with the anchor in hand. I literally dragged my boat thru the water until the bow landed on the shore, securing the anchor about 40’ up the beach.

I went to see Captain Wayne to uphold my end of the bargain. I handed him the $100 from my pocket and as I walked away he bellowed out “Soggy Dollar”. When I turned to ask him what that meant, he gave me a quick history of the term “Soggy Dollar” relating it to past times when sailors would make port, visit the local taverns, and pay with wet currency from their travels at sea. And now I know – “the rest of the story”.

Next, off to visit the rangers (now two waiting for me). I thought they may want to “talk to me”. They didn’t really have anything legal to say and were more relieved that my boat was back at bay – they were very nice and extremely helpful during my stay there. The Coast Guard canceled their launch and all was well again on Stockton Island (or so I thought).

On a side note: I did talk with a local who gave me insight as to why my boat may have broken anchorage. Apparently, some of these beaches are nothing more that a few inches of sand covering solid rock. I believe this was my case since I prefer to anchor in areas where rock meets sand increasing my exposure to this circumstance.

After the day’s events and with Rover now secured with two anchors, I prepared for dinner. Tonight on the menu, chicken and rice with a side order of thumb??? Yes, during my preparation I was able to slice off the tip of my left thumb and commenced to bleed all over my boat. The knife was sharp so the pain was minimal. The quantity of leaking fluids was a bit excessive. Three paper towels and 2 yards of electrical tape could not hold back the flood. After playing that game and getting my thumb under control, finally I started to cook.

When on the water, a white gas Colman stove is my choice of portable flame. I do keep a back up propane burner but like to keep the propane bottles (2) for the BBQ. Fire lit, food on the burner as it sat on my cabin table boiling the brimming pot of water, chicken, and rice. Still sitting at my table (port aft seat) I took time to organize and clean as needed. A few minutes later I hear a WHOOSH coming from my food. Well I knew it wasn’t the chicken talking, hell he’s been dead for a while now. It was the ignition of the liquid fuel spewing from my burner onto my table top. Wow, you don’t see this everyday!!!

I tried blowing it out but that only made it mad. My fire extinguisher was within reach but I didn’t want to have to clean up that mess, plus it would have ruined my dinner. With the use of my dish towel I sat calmly and carefully removed the pot of boiling liquid from the table fire across my lap and out onto the cockpit seat thinking that the burner could explode at anytime. Then reaching back in with the towel, I grabbed the base of the burner and ran to the back of the boat extinguishing the burner by submersion in the lake. Racing back to the cabin, the fire was under control.

I didn’t deal with the white gas burner anymore that night. Instead I broke out the propane burner, this time leaving it outside on the cockpit floor to finish cooking. Once done, I ate, semi cleaned - leaving both burners outside that night, and completed my log entries.

2100 I realized it may be time retire in fear of more catastrophe waiting for me around the corner.  I instead went to bed, almost hiding under my covers and wishing for tomorrow to come.

Total Sail Time: 5 ½ hrs
Total Nautical Miles: 16 nm

7/29 Wednesday

Wednesday was a better day. I woke up with the sun and on the same beach thank God, had a nice quite breakfast, cleaned up from last nights events, and was under way once again; This time for a trip around Outer Island.

While sailing I was still plotting my course, generating ETA’s, possible lunch ports, and overnight anchorages. About half way to Outer Island in a fresh westerly wind, I made the decision not to circle the island since sailing on the windward shore would be slow and flukey, but more so, the east bound leg would have me tacking into a west wind the entire day (or what would be left of the day before sunset). Not in a hurry to do anything, I changed course and headed to the east shores of Cat Island for lunch.

This was a great place, no people, no boats, nothing but a mile of untouched beach. Had another nice lunch and spent some time in the Zodiac basking in the blue skies and crystal clear waters.

 

Set sail and headed north up and around Cat Island then into a heavy west wind beating my way to Rocky Island. I sailed into Rocky Island through the NE passage over the top of South Twin Island. I made anchorage on the SE tip of the island on a very nice sand peninsula. Other boaters, kayakers, and campers occupied this beach but there was still more than enough room for everyone.

To be on the safe side I didn’t cook this night; however, it did dawn on me why my white gas burner caught fire…I had over filled it. I know there’s a big label that says not to that, but sometimes mistakes happen and I do remember using my nice new funnel and really filling it up. Not a good idea.

For this trip my ships stores (cooler with 10 lbs of block ice) included 20 cans of beer, three bottles of rum (I like rum), and what was left of a gallon of pink lemonade in the unlikely event of a hurricane party on the high seas. Wednesday night my internal barometer dropped several inches indicating a strong “Drunk Front” was approaching. Sure enough here they came, three kayakers in their late 30’s ready to weather the storm with me.

It started with a warm “hello”, when they questioned why my boat was anchored so close to the beach. I told them it was a long story that would take time (and a camp fire) to tell. I offered to stop by their camp sight later that evening with a few beers. They agreed, not knowing the destructive damage of what the Rover’s stores had in mind for them.

I was again sure to have two anchors securely set, all items stowed, and bed made for sleeping since this drunk front may very well last on into the night.

Landing on the beach along side their kayaks, I offloaded my cooler and charged their camp site. They were just finishing up with their third square and too, settling in for the night. I offered them a beer and my peace offering was accepted with a “Hell Yes”. Apparently, kayaker lack the space needed for essentials like ice and beer.

Dehydration must be a sailor’s best friend, for after the first two beers, we all were beginning to feel the effects of what would be the Perfect Storm. One, two, three, etc… Beers flowed like the foamy seas in a fresh breeze. As the sun settled into the horizon, it was for certain the eye of the storm would soon be upon us. We lit the fire and continued exchanging tales of the Apostle Islands laughing until our eyes watered and our sides hurt.

Then out of nowhere it happened; the eye was upon us...we ran out of beer. Never fear, I said with a stout voice, for the Rover has never let me down in a squall such as this. At that time I reached into the cooler and brought forth the one person who could lead us to safety. I announced “our beloved Captain Morgan has joined us in this battle against isolation”.

Using the empty cans still in their Cozies, we pushed in the tops and fashioned them into cups to help bail the booze from the bottle to our lips. This worked well and by adding some leftover lemonade we were able to re-hydrate and ride out the storm.

After the passing of the storm and the fire reduced to ambers, I made way back to the Rover under the blanket of night. Signaling to my new found friends via my anchor light, assured them we had in fact made way and immerged the victors this day on Rocky Island.

I reconsidered the part about victory around 10:00 am the next day when I woke up with a pounding headache.

Total Sail Time: 8 hrs
Total Nautical Miles: 21 nm

7/30 Thursday

Yes, I woke up with a pounding headache and not in the mood to do much of anything except breath. Contrary to their comments about “getting up early and heading to new lands” didn’t seem creditable since the kayakers were still in their tents. Maybe they too were the feeling “a bit under the weather”???

I fumbled around my cabin making feeble attempts to start my day but found myself spending more time on my back looking up at the sky wondering what the hell happened last night. Gatorade seems to work pretty well after a massive storm. A quart or so later and a light meal, I was in a position to reorganize and get things stowed for my next passage.

Zodiac made it back to the boat and stayed, very nice. Cooler still intact and contained 20 empty beer cans and one near empty bottle of rum. Lots of sand on the boat this time; sleeping must have been the priority when I returned. 1200 Finished cleaning and finally underway.

A quick motorboat ride to the kayaker’s base camp revealed motion but little activity. We said our goodbyes and wished each other well for the days to come. I will always remember them as the “Kayakers” they know be by the name “Joe Beer”.

On the advice of the Kayakers, Devils Island and the sea caves were high on my list. Passage there was painstaking and close to regurgitation of the mornings square. Reluctant to hoist sails I chose to make the passage under power. Arriving on the NE shores of Devils Island allowed me to better understand why this is a National Reserve. Beautiful untouched natural sights such as this are too few and far between. Congratulations to our government for protecting this area and others like it.

I found anchoring is nearly impossible on the NE end of Devils Island. Solid rock bottom combined with unfavorable winds, I would suggest finding an alternative location. I was on the windward shore in calm waters and anchored my boat up wind as best I could before leaving on the Zodiac. This way, if the boat were to break anchor it would be floating towards me making it easier to retrieve.

This island contained a collection of impressive sea caves large enough to maneuver an 8’ Zodiac through along with an impressive light house. Waters were again very clear and the bottom of the caves are quite visible. I spent about an hour cave exploring and finally back to my boat for lunch. Headache was gone and I was now in good standing for the next passage.

 

 

After lunch I weighed anchor, rounded the north tip of Devils Island, and set a course south allowing the winds to choose my next stop.

Heading south off the southeast shores of Bear Island, clouds were forming and it looked like we might get some rain. I continued south then southwest towards Raspberry Island. Soon after my course change, clouds became menacing, winds increased, and waves built; this was no drunk front, this was the real thing.

Closed hauled with the outboard at full power I made a run to the east side of Raspberry Island to wait out the imminent storm. About 3 miles east of the island, I came across two kayakers seeking the same protection as I. I offered them a tow but they refused. They were determined to (and did) get there under their own power. (Crazy kayakers)

Again beaching the bow onto the shore line, I stepped off and placed my anchor through and exposed tree root. That worked great. The island offered great protection from the storm and I was quick to stow the sails and erect my boom tent. Five minutes later the rain set in. Within 30 minutes the rain passed and I found myself wondering if I should press on or spend the night. Being on vacation and in a great spot, I stayed.

 

 

Total Sail Time: 5 1/2 hrs
Total Nautical Miles: 14 nm 

7/31 Friday

I awoke to a picture perfect sunrise overlooking the water. Relaxed and well rested I enjoyed breakfast and plotted my new day. Keeping this day simple, Red Cliff Bay would be my only stop allowing me enough time to return to Bayfield and visit the Maritime Museum.

Sailing SE between Bayfield Peninsula and Oak Island, the day started with a decent north wind, changing to a light north wind at which time I set my spinnaker sail. Eventually the wind completely changed direction and was now on my bow. I dropped all sails and completed my trip to Red Cliff under motor.

Beauty and the Beast in the bay of Red Cliff. I entered the bay through the north and motored west along the shore passing the skeleton of an old boat scuttled many years have past since the days of her prime. I would later learn about her fate in the Maritime Museum. As I motored, there was an eerie calm about this bay. That changed in an instance after my keel struck an under water obstruction. In a slight panic I quickly stopped the motor in fear of other objects that may lie ahead.

Now deep in the bay and knowing I was in shallow waters, I caressed the Rover through the even shallower waters heading for the “marked” channel. Several times my keel struck bottom and each time I raised the keel that much more. I wondered if I would simply run out of water and have to turn back. I pressed on and made the channel without further issues. Reaching the “markers” I was for sure these were not Coast Guard approved devices, they looked more like Clorox bottles painted red and dark green. With the shallows astern, I made way for Bayfield.

 

I arrived at Bayfield marina and secured my boat. To my disbelief, Captain Wayne was in fact my dock neighbor. We sat back and revisited stories of “back in the olden days” when I lost my boat. From here I went and spent a few hours in the Maritime Museum, had white fish for lunch (most enjoyable), and eventually met up with the 22 Fleet.

With the drier afternoon, I started de-rigging my boat and stowing sails in case of rain during the night. This plan paid off since it did rain and it was nice to know that I had a slight jump on the weather.

1930 Fish Boil!!! We all met at the Grunky’s for the fish boil dinner. The “tables of beer spillage” is where we sat as we did before. This time we knew how to set the beers without having them in our laps. Stories were exchanged, dinner was served (again, most enjoyable), thanks were given to our trusting trip leaders, and we decided to meet later at the marina for photo downloads onto Erv’s computer.

Total Sail Time: 5 hrs
Total Nautical Miles: 12 nm

8/1 Saturday

I woke up at 0500 with wet feet. It rained last night and my hatches were open. Wide awake and ready to go, I first drove my truck and trailer to the launch and then motored my boat over in the early morning light.

South winds were blowing heavy and as hard as it may seem, I was lost at sea. I couldn’t find the launch ramp. I passed back in forth across the 2-3 cuts where the Coast Guard and fishing boats make port. I was so confused that I actually motored into one of these cuts and really got stuck. With no room to turn around, I motored in reverse back into the pounding waves. Wet from this mistake, I continued down the coast to the adjacent marina where then I knew I was heading in the right direction. What a pain that was.

This was a great trip and very well run. I hope and plan to meet with you all again next year. I would like to give thanks to all the members and for those who made this trip possible and a special thanks to those who took on the rolls as leaders.

THANKS FOR THE GREAT TIME!!!

IRISH ROVER - OUT